FR – The vibrant wines of winemaker Julien Mary, who has been based in Collias since 2020, delight the palate with their fresh and lively notes. Discovered whilst having lunch at L’Oxalis restaurant, wines such as Pipelette, La Siesta and Mama are a true ode to the Gard terroir.
Wine tasting
Back in the Gard in 2017, Julien Mary is putting his training as a winemaker to good use to create wines at his estate in Collias, having previously worked alongside Nicolas Renaud at Clos des Grillons in Rocheford-du-Gard for five years. This was a highly enriching experience, both personally and professionally, perfectly complementing his studies in viticulture and oenology at the CNEAC in Argenton-sur-Creuze.
Following his travels abroad – to England, Wales, Australia, Alaska and Argentina, amongst other places – Julien Mary’s return to Occitanie proved to be the starting point for an adventure tracing his family roots from 2020 onwards.
Domaine de la Goguette: family roots
The Domaine de la Goguette, based in the former Cabotines wine cellar on Rue de la République in Collias, now comprises over 15 hectares of vineyards, situated between Collias and Blauzac.
Julien Mary cultivates Syrah – a red grape variety with aromas of red berries and forest floor – Grenache, which also offers aromas of red berries but with hints of spice and liquorice, Bourbenlenc, and Viognier on soils comprising clay – which retains moisture and is ideal for cultivation – limestone, which provides good drainage, and rounded pebbles.
The natural wines of Domaine de la Goguette
Natural wines are subject to particularly stringent specifications, encompassing both the care taken with the facilities and the winemaking process: no additives, no or very few sulphites, no yeast addition, pasteurisation or filtration during winemaking, and respect for the land and biodiversity (ecopastoralism thanks to the sheep from the Manade La Clastre in Sanilhac). The vines also grow alongside other crops (wild herbs, fruit trees) and the grapes are harvested by hand.
Wines that evoke the south
La Goguette’s wines exude the essence of the south. As well as the crisp white Pipelette, ‘made from a blend of Clairette pressed directly and Cinsault using the blanc de noir method’ (vinnouveau.fr)… the refreshing rosé La Siesta, Julien Mary’s very first vintage; the smooth, oaky Chemin Radieux; Mama, a 100% Grenache with aromas of red fruits and spices; and Bleu Ciel, a fragrant blend of Viognier and Bourboulenc.
Julien Mary collaborates with many leading names in the local gastronomic scene: the restaurants L’Oxalis (read our article), mentioned above, and Les Méchantes in Collias, Le Florès in Saint-Hilaire-d’Ozilhan, Le Pebre d’Aï and Café Quentine in Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie, L’Oustamai (read our article) in Saint-Maximin, L’Ode des sens (read our paper) in Saint-Siffret, Pollen in Uzès, as well as a few delicatessens, such as La Cave d’Uzès and Gaiffier in Uzès, or La Mère Minard in Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie.
The tasty extra? Tasting sessions in the estate’s wine cellar can be accompanied by a selection of local delicacies (aubergine caviar, goat’s cheese, tapenade).
Many thanks to Julien Mary and his wife for their warm welcome and the presentation of the Domaine de la Goguette.
The right address: Domaine de la Goguette, 2 rue de la République, Collias.